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Sun Protection
2025 Will See Faster, More Ethical and Accurate SPF Testing: ISO Approves Two New Methods
In December 2024, the ISO gave its long-awaited final approval of two SPF test methods that experts say are more ethical, economical and accurate than current approaches. One in particular is also reportedly faster, reducing analysis from weeks to days.
Safety
FDA Proposes MoCRA-mandated Tests to Detect Asbestos in Talc-containing Cosmetics
Skin Care
Product Spotlight: Dickinson’s Witch Hazel Pore Perfecting Toner
Latest
Consumers/Market
Editor's Note: Reimagining Beauty
Reimagining beauty will be key to success for 2025 as consumers seek efficacy, precision solutions, sustainability, etc. This issue presents ideas to support this; from ultrafine bubbles and phage therapy, to aqueous propolis, barrier care and more.
Sponsored
A new collagen era for hair care with Col-Frag remastered™
Col-Frag remastered™ is a type I collagen fragment produced in Wild plants as biofactories through vertical farming, that provides volume, gloss and facilitates combing.
Consumers/Market
Barrier Reinforcement: Skin Strength, Preventative Care, Peptides and Ceramides, Immunity, Transient Microbes and More
This collection of six Expert Opinions reveals current and future trends and ideas for skin barrier reinforcement products. Insights range from strengthening solutions and preventative care, to biotech, plant polyphenols, microbiota and more.
Efficacy
How Bee-friendly Aqueous Propolis ‘Sticks it’ to Microbiota Dysbiosis, Skin Conditions
An aqueous, or white propolis, extract was tested in vitro and shown to affect microbiota connected with skin conditions. In vivo trials also demonstrated the ingredient’s safety and efficacy in reducing skin discomfort, dryness and body odor.
Skin Care
How WGS-driven Phage Therapy Targets Microbe Variations Underlying Facial Skin Conditions
Variations exist across the facial microbiome, as shown by whole-genome sequencing (WGS) and case studies. This highlights the need for site-specific testing. The present study used this approach to develop and test a phage therapy for compromised skin.
Consumers/Market
Next in Skin – Valuing Beauty for Well-being, A Discussion
Beauty is in a strange place. As this Q&A shows, while we encourage confidence and self-expression, this is at odds with biology, culture and status. This delicate interplay is important to consider since we shape the very well-being of our consumers.
Actives
Soho Aneco Uses Co-solvency to Design Water-soluble HPR Vitamin A/Retinol Derivative
The water soluble hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), known as AC-HPR-W2 SACOS, is described as a new-generation, direct-acting retinol that represents one of the most bioavailable forms of vitamin A.
Balancing/Soothing
Rahn's Defensil-Pure Eco Pre/Post-biotic Supports 'Preservative-free,' Anti-inflammasome Skin Care
Clinical studies have shown that Defensil-Pure Eco can protect dry and atopic skin against further damage by quickly regenerating skin and "resealing" the barrier, per Rahn.
Natural/Sustainable
Evonik Grows Natural Offerings with CapilAcid Hair Protector, Oleobiota Sebum Normalizer
Evonik highlighted the expansion of its natural actives portfolio with two botanicals: CapilAcid and Oleobiota, which originated from Evonik's acquisition of Novachem. The ingredients are being integrated into Evonik's care solutions business.
Literature/Data
Two Johns Hopkins 'Amino Artisans' Aim to Synthesize Snail Mucus Protein
Researchers at Johns Hopkins' Krieger and Whiting schools aim to synthetically produce they key protein in snail mucus known as epiphragmin. Once created, the material could be enhanced for given benefits and made available to skin care manufacturers.
Companies
ChainCraft, Royal Avebe Collab to Upcycle Potato Juice into High-value Fatty Acids
Per the companies, this partnership not only underscores their commitment to sustainability, but also serves as a benchmark for how industry players can collaborate to solve environmental challenges through innovation.
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